5 cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know

5 cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know

Recently, I noticed several writings about outdoor tiles being expensive. Some writer has gone to an extreme by cooking up fake essays about outdoor tiles to generate traffic on search engines. I was shocked when I saw an article pointing directly at outdoor tiles as one of the most expensive. Those writers even go to the extent that these unique tiles are meant for first-class people. Then, I asked myself, how about people of the middle class? Are they not entitled to living a good life? Are they not allowed to make their homes a comfortable place? So, I began to do some research secretly to know if outdoor tiles are not expensive yet of good quality. Dear reader, I found countless of them. 

Immediately I found what I was looking for, then I thought about what those writings about expensive outdoor tiles would have caused people. Some people would have made their home a more comfortable place, but they see themselves as someone that cannot afford to terrazzo floor tile in their homes. However, this article is not meant to blame anyone, but it aims at passing out the correct information to people of the middle class. I comforted myself with the fact that everyone is entitled to their opinion. But I want to charge you and encourage you to come out of the mentality that you cannot make your home like heaven on earth. 

5 cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know

 So, I won’t be like those writers that left some people comfortless by giving them incomplete information due to their inability to do proper research. While I was searching to know if there are cheap outdoor tiles, I found out that there are countless them. Then, the struggle continues on picking out the most affordable of them and yet of good quality.

All you need to do is pay attention, then go straight to any tile store to pick up your tile. Hence, below are the quality and the cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know;

  1. Botanique brunia porcelain paving slabs: This unique tile will fit in the exterior part of your house. It can be installed on walls and floors of the exterior part of the house. It is so cool and beautiful. It is 600 x 600 x 20 mm. Today, you can see this awesome outdoor tile in the range of 29.95 pounds per square meter. Isn’t that amazing? This tile is one of the cheapest tiles and yet a quality one. For those who are scared of visiting a tile store, I want to encourage you to go today and ask for Botanique brunia porcelain paving slabs.
  2. Lakeside blue-grey slate effect porcelain paving slabs: This excellent outdoor tile is 595 x 595 x 20 mm. It is easy to clean and easy to maintain. Even in some of the so-called rich men’s houses, I have seen it. You can also afford and install it to either your pool area or every other exterior part of your house. Water does not penetrate it easily. It has a smooth surface that will add more character to other outdoor materials in your home. 
5 cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know
  1. Medici plus natural porcelain paving slabs: This unique outdoor tile is gorgeous. This porcelain tile is now 26.95 pounds per square meter. Its size is 595 by 595 by 20mm. It is easy to clean and maintain. Medici is a tile that can be installed either on the wall or floor of the exterior part of the house. What else are you waiting for? You can go on search engines and check out some of its features. You can see this tile on Amazon and every tile store in Australia. Therefore, for those of you that have been willing to see or know an outdoor tile that will fall within your budget, Medici plus natural porcelain paving slabs is what you need. 
  1. Material Perla porcelain paving slabs: Do you want a cheap, beautiful tile of good quality? Material is what you need to consider. This porcelain tile should be around 36.95 pounds per square meter. It is easy to clean and maintain. It is a type of tile that is also suitable for walls and floors of the exterior part of the house. Honestly, I want you to trust me on this that you can never regret using this excellent outdoor tile in your home. Its size is 610 by 610 by 20mm. Isn’t that lovely? 
5 cheapest outdoor tiles that you need to know
  1. Calacatta gold porcelain paving slabs: This unique tile has almost the same features as the Materia Perla porcelain paving slabs. This porcelain tile is also 610 by 610 by 20mm. One can get this tile in the range of 36.95 pounds per square meter. It is easy to maintain and clean. It is different from other tiles with a smooth surface that can cause an accident in the home. Calacatta gold has a rough surface that can prevent slipperiness. Therefore, you won’t regret using this fantastic tile for those of you who want something beautiful. You will also like to read! Best 10 Outdoor Tiles for Modern Gardens

Closing thought

You might be wondering where and how to get the above-listed outdoor tiles. They are all easy to get. You can get them in any tile store around you. Also, you can get them on Amazon. Please permit me to chip in something significant quickly. Please ensure that you are hiring a competent tiler to do the work for you. One thing is to get cheap material, and another thing is to get a qualified installer that will do the exact picture of what one has in mind. Do your research before concluding on who to hire. Finally, I want to tell you that I am always open to answering questions regarding this topic. So, don’t hesitate to drop your question in the comment box if there is any. You can read about 12 home improvement projects you should never, ever DIY by clicking here.

How Does An Led Light Bulb Work

How Does An Led Light Bulb Work

We all know that LED lights are really economical and last a lot longer than any other light. However, do you know how does an LED light bulb work, and what LED actually stands for?

There is much interesting information about LED lights that you might not know about. One of them is how they are actually working and why you should rather consider this type of light instead of the normal lights.

What is a LED light?

Did you ever wonder what LED stands for? What this type of light actually is? LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. This is actually just a semiconductor that can fit into an electronic circuit, and transport an electrical current in just one direction. Causing it to glow. The more LED lights there are, the brighter they will shine.

How do They Work?

It is interesting how they are working. People think that the LED lights are working the same as the normal bulbs, but that the globes are just smaller and put more into one bulb to generate better light.

However, this isn’t the case at all. They are working completely differently than normal light bulbs, and this is also the reason why it lasts a lot longer than normal light bulbs. Here is a quick explanation of how it works exactly.

The LED lights are made with 2 types of material, the (N and P) types material. The N-type material is the material that is containing extra electrons for an extra charge. The P-type material has extra holes in, which is collecting the extra charge. This causes the holes to start glowing. Making it light up. This is an easy way of getting light. And, this also explains why the LED lights are lasting so much longer and why they are more economical.

Benefits of LED Light Bulbs

Now, you know how LED lights work, and why they are getting so popular all over the world. But now, you might want to know if there are really any benefits of the LED lights and not the normal light bulbs that we all know. We all know that LED lights are more expensive, but are they worth paying more for it?

The first benefit is that it is lasting 100 times longer than normal lights. Meaning that even if you are paying more for the LED light, it is still going to be cheaper in the long run. And, then you are saving power with it as well. Making it double as economical as the normal light bulbs.

It is also shining much brighter than normal light bulbs. And, without it use more electricity. So, you can basically purchase a strong LED light, without the worry that your utility bill is going to be higher than normal.

Replacing Your Normal Bulbs

This is just a fact. Replacing all your normal bulbs with LED bulbs, it will be the best thing you have ever done. You might think that this is going to cost you a lot of money to replace the light bulbs, but in the long run, you are going to save a lot of money.

They don’t need to be replaced as often, meaning that you won’t be without light in a room until you can get to the shops for purchasing a new light bulb, very often. The light won’t fade as it is getting older and you will pay lower utility bills. If a normal light bulb breaks, it can cause glass scattered everywhere. Something that won’t happen when a LED light breaks. There isn’t glass that can be scattered everywhere. And, the heat of the LEDs won’t be as hot as normal lights that will burst.

Now, you don’t only know what LED stands for, you will also know how they work. And, the best part is that you will learn more about the reasons why this is something that you should consider buying. In the long run, you will benefit a lot, and you will even not have to worry about a room that is left in the dark, because of a faulty light bulb ever again.

Check out: Backyard Composting

Order Compost For Your Gardening Or Landscaping Needs!

Order Compost For Your Gardening Or Landscaping Needs!

Compost is a  soil amendment  DO NOT PLANT DIRECTLY INTO THIS OR ANY OTHER COMPOST. COMPOST SHOULD BE BLENDED THOROUGHLY WITH SOIL AND/OR OTHER NON-COMPOST AMENDMENTS.

PRICING

Compost ($16.00/cubic yard)

Garden Blend mixes 45 percent compost, 45 percent black dirt, and 10 percent sand to help ensure beautiful gardening results. ($21.00/cubic yard)

50/50 Compost Blend mixes 50 percent compost and 50 percent black dirt to grow vibrant plants, trees, and shrubs. ($18.00/cubic yard)

Topsoil contains highly-concentrated organic matter to ensure the greatest growth results. ($20.00/cubic yard)

Rain Garden Blend is a mix of 70 percent sand soil and 30 percent compost. Used to filter water before it leaves job sites. ($23.00/cubic yard)

DELIVERY OR PICK UP: Delivery is $110 dollars. For soil and compost, the maximum load is 15 yards. For mulch, the max load is 25 yards. They will not deliver mixed loads. Pick up with your vehicle in Burnsville. For more information please contact the Mulch Store online or call at 952-946-6999.

http://www.mulchstoremn.com/mulch.html 

Mulch. Click here for photos and prices on mulch.

Use the compost calculator to calculate how much compost you need.


COMPOST CALCULATOR

This simple calculator will tell you how much compost you need to amend or top-dress your project.  Simply (1) enter the length in feet, (2) enter the width in feet, (3) select the depth you’d like and (5) press Calculate. Your answer will appear under the calculate button.

Soil Amendment: 

Compost used as an amendment is typically incorporated into the soil anywhere from 1″ – 6″ deep or more, depending on need. The typical application rate to amend soil is 3 CY / 1000 sq ft at 1″ deep.

Top Dressing:  Compost used as a top dressing is applied to the top of the ground from 1/4″ to a maximum of 3/8″ in depth. The typical application rate for top dressing is 1 CY / 1000 sq ft at 1/4-3/8″ deep.

For Vegetable Gardens and Flower Beds: 

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick) to a maximum of 6 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (2” thick). Roto-till, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again.

For Bedding Plants: 

Spread 1/8 to ¼” of compost evenly on top of the soil, mix into the soil, and then water thoroughly.

For House Plants: 

Spread 1 tablespoon per 6” pot or about 1/8” of compost evenly over the top of the soil and water. Repeat every six months or when required.

For Sod Preparation: 

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick) to a maximum of 6 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (2” thick). Roto-till soil, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again.

For Seed Bed Preparation:

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 1-1/2 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1/2” thick) to a maximum of 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick). Roto-till, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again.

For Backfilling Trees:

Mix one part of compost with 3 parts of native soil and backfill around the root ball.

Why Is Composting Good?

By Nacy, eHow Contributor

Compost is one of the most beneficial soil amendments, and adding it is one of the easiest ways to improve the health of your garden. The byproduct of organic materials decomposing, compost is an excellent way to recharge the soil.

Multivitamins:

Compost delivers a balanced blend of the nutrients plants need to grow. Unlike fertilizer, which acts quickly and can burn plants, compost is a gentle, slow-release vitamin.

Improved Soil Structure: 

Compost adds bulk to sandy soil and helps it retain moisture. It loosens heavy clay soil so it drains better.

Earth Movers: 

Beneficial soil organisms, from earthworms to microscopic creatures, live in compost and give it vitality. The worms tunnel through the soil to aerate it and boost its nutrient value with their waste. Soil organisms work like pro-biotics to keep the beneficial bacteria flourishing.

Improved Resistance to Pests and Diseases:

Just like people, plants are better able to fend off diseases if they are healthy. In addition, botanists have found that pests are less likely to attack healthy plants. Since compost-fed plants are stronger, to begin with if they are infected or attacked they recover faster than plants growing in soil without compost.

Mulch: 

When applied in beds, compost makes an excellent mulch. It keeps weeds down and helps the soil retain moisture.

Composting on the Farm:

Farmers have been composting for centuries by plowing their fields under at the end of the growing season. Add some compost to every planting hole you dig. Spread it around established plants. Sprinkle it over newly seeded patches of grass. Grow potted plants in it. Once you start using black gold, you will find more and more uses for it.

Check out: Donate Hl Power & Light

Why Composting Can Help Mitigate Climate Change

Why Composting Can Help Mitigate Climate Change

The decomposition of organics in landfills produces methane, a greenhouse gas that, according to the EPA, is 70 times more effective at trapping radiant heat than carbon dioxide. As a result, landfills have become the third-largest source of human-caused greenhouse gases in the US. In contrast, composting this material creates a valuable soil enhancer that replenishes depleted soils, protects against erosion, can replace synthetic fertilizers, and helps retain water. Composting our organics protects air, water, and soil quality.

 “The only effective method to prevent methane emissions from landfills is to stop biodegradable materials from entering landfills. The good news is that landfill alternatives such as composting are readily available and cost‑effective. Compost has the added benefit of adding organic matter to the soil, sequestering carbon, improving plant growth, and reducing water use ‑ all-important to stabilizing the climate. Composting is thus vital to restoring the climate and our soils and should be front and center in a national strategy to protect the climate in the short term.” 
-BioCycle magazine, August 2008

Significantly decreasing waste disposed of in landfills and incinerators will reduce greenhouse gas emissions the equivalent to closing 21% of U.S. coal-fired power plants. This is comparable to leading climate protection proposals such as improving national vehicle fuel efficiency. Indeed, preventing waste and expanding reuse, recycling, and composting are essential to put us on the path to climate stability.

www.stoptrashingtheclimate.org

Robert Watkins, the co-chair of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s Third Assessment, recently wrote:

“T(he) Copenhagen talks focused on the leading climate change culprit: CO2. But reversing global temperature increases by reducing carbon emissions will take many decades, if not centuries. Even if the largest cuts in CO2 contemplated in Copenhagen are implemented, it simply will not reverse the melting of ice already occurring …The most obvious strategy is to make an all-out effort to reduce emissions of methane. Methane’s short life makes it especially interesting in the short run, given the pace of climate change. If we need to suppress temperature quickly in order to preserve glaciers, reducing methane can make an immediate impact. Compared to the massive requirements necessary to reduce CO2, cutting methane requires only modest investment. Where we stop methane emissions, cooling follows within a decade, not centuries. That could make the difference for many fragile systems on the brink.”

Robert Watson and Mahamed El-Ashry, “A Fast, Cheap Way to Cool the Planet,” The Wall Street Journal (December 29, 2009).

ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING

Composting benefits the environment in many ways. When you compost your food scraps, you produce nutrient-rich soil that is needed to maintain healthy and productive farm fields. This closes an important loop and completes the cycle necessary to grow more healthy food. When it comes to global warming, composting directly reduces carbon dioxide (CO2) and other powerful greenhouse gases, like methane (CH4) and nitrous oxide (N2O).

Composting is an effective way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Many people believe that throwing food scraps and paper products into a landfill is harmless because the materials biodegrade. However, most people are surprised to learn that when these materials break down in a landfill they rot anaerobically (without oxygen) and become powerful contributors to greenhouse gas emissions. When food scraps are thrown in a landfill, the degrading material creates methane, a greenhouse gas that is 70 times more potent than carbon dioxide.

While it is true that some landfills try to capture the methane and use it as energy, many studies have shown that most of the methane gas from landfills is released before it is captured, and then more is released when they dig the trenches for the capture pipes. Capture rates are at most 46% in the best-case scenario (Institute for Local Self Reliance, Environmental Protection Agency). Landfills are the single largest human source of methane emissions in the world. Even with the best technology, most of the methane from landfills is released into the atmosphere.

By composting, the generation of greenhouse gases, particularly methane, is avoided. A well-run composting operation will produce negligible greenhouse gas emissions, mostly from the operation of tractors and other equipment.

Compost improves the quality of our soil and reduces the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides. The end product of your efforts to compost food scraps and paper products is nutrient-rich soil. When this compost is used on fields it has many benefits:

  • It replaces chemical fertilizers and pesticides, avoiding greenhouse gases related to their production. The application of synthetic nitrogen to fields is a significant portion of nitrous oxide (N2O) emissions. N20 is a powerful greenhouse gas, about 310 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Compost reduces the use of NO2 and other energy-intensive fertilizers and pesticides. “In fact, a single 40-pound bag contains the equivalent of 2.5 gallons of gasoline. In addition to their oil base, synthetic fertilizers are spiked with concentrated forms of nitrogen and phosphorus, which are harder for plants to absorb than their naturally occurring counterparts. The excess phosphorus and nitrogen not absorbed by plants runoff into a storm drain that feeds into rivers and streams, contributing to algae blooms that deprive waterways of oxygen and kill off aquatic life.” From the Green Guide, National Geographic http://www.thegreenguide.com/products/print_pr.mhtml?id=308
  • It improves the tilth and workability of soils, resulting in less fuel consumption to the soil.
  • It helps soils hold or sequester carbon dioxide.

In addition to significantly reducing the production of greenhouse gas emissions, compost replenishes and revitalizes exhausted farm soils by replacing trace minerals and organic material, reduces soil erosion, and helps prevent stormwater runoff.

Not all composting is the same….there is no place like home to compost. Composting your materials at home in your backyard or right at the source are the best ways to get the most environmental benefits from composting. Collecting and hauling compostable materials, and processing them at a facility, requires fuel and energy. How much this offsets the environmental benefits of composting can only be calculated using the specifics of a particular program. However, that said, the overall environmental benefits of composting compared to the alternatives of burning or burying compostable material as waste are far superior.

Compost collection is an excellent supplement for at-the-source composting and allows for more materials to make their way from the waste stream into the soil. For people who cannot compost at home (because they have limited space or no yard, for example) curbside composting provides the opportunity for them to compost, too. Composting on-site at businesses is rarely feasible, so compost collection provides a way for restaurants and grocers to reap the environmental benefits of composting. Large-scale commercial composting facilities are carefully monitored and can handle materials that we would not easily compost in a backyard compost pile. For example, sustained high temperatures allow for the safe composting of meat and dairy products, as well as non-recyclable food packaging like waxed boxes, egg cartons, cotton balls, paper plates, and more.

NEED MORE BENEFITS?

A recent waste audit showed that of the material we throw away 34 percent is easily composted organic material and another 33 percent is paper, a substantial portion of which could be recycled or composted.

Taking organic material out of the waste stream has several benefits.

  • Hennepin County’s incinerator (HERC) is at processing capacity.  Garbage continues to increase, so HERC is currently turning away solid waste to landfills both in state and out of state. Organic matter in landfills is a prime cause of emissions of methane into the atmosphere (23 times worse greenhouse gas than CO2). If garbage production increases, as anticipated, Hennepin County will need to build a new incinerator. (Millions of dollars and not very effective at collecting greenhouse emissions.)
  • HERC operates more efficiently with the “wet stuff” removed (an analogy –“Try burning noodles on a campfire”) and releases less methane.
  • Recycling organics would boost the recycling rate from about 25% to 50- 70%. Increasing the recycling rate should negate the need to build another incinerator and paying to transport and tip at landfills. A side effect of collecting organics is that other rates of recycling increase also.
  • Organics are removed from the waste stream and composted, providing an earth-friendly end-product.
  • The tipping fee for organics is less than the tipping fee for solid waste ($15 per ton vs about $41.85 per ton). Source Separated Organics (SSO) is also exempt from the county solid waste fee of 14.5% and a state solid waste tax of 17%.
  • Instead of taking up space in a landfill or being burned in the incinerator, they are recycled into compost a valuable resource used in landscaping and road construction projects.

This valuable compost can be used to:

  •  Replenish our soils
  •  Reduce soil erosion
  •  Prevent polluted stormwater runoff from contaminating our wetlands, lakes, and streams
  • Capture carbon dioxide for climate protection

What is NOT compostable?

There should be very little in your regular black trash cart apart from plastics (plastic wrap, plastic packaging, non-recyclable plastic bags) and broken glass, ceramics, rubber, leather, non-recyclable metal, diapers, and pet feces.

Where is our organics material being taken? Will it be burnt?

The organics will be taken to a facility to be turned into compost. It will NOT be burnt. The trash from your black cart will continue to go to the HERC burner and be burnt, as is done currently with all our garbage. The material in the green cart is diverted from this regular process which is much better for the environment. Click here for photos of the compost facility.

Has this been done before?

Hennepin County has sponsored pilot organics collections in Minnetonka, Wayzata, and Orono. It has also been city-wide and ongoing in Hutchinson MN. In fact, until the 1950s, organics were collected throughout Minneapolis-St Paul. Linden Hills will be the first Minneapolis neighborhood to re-start collecting.

What about yard waste?

At this stage, the city will NOT be collecting yard waste.

What about in the kitchen-is there anything I should do to prepare for the organics collection?

The organics cart from the city can be kept outdoors, wherever you keep your regular black trash cart. You may want to consider switching to a smaller black cart after a few weeks of the pilot if you find yourself having very little non-recyclable waste. As far as in the kitchen, there are a number of options. 1. Convert your usual kitchen trash can to biodegradable only, and place all the plastic/non-recyclable metal, etc elsewhere in a smaller receptacle; 2. Consider a pull out “trash drawer” for trash with multiple compartments so you can have the organics in one compartment, recyclable paper in another, non-recyclables in the third to fit your needs. Or 3. If you don’t have a lot of food waste you might consider a countertop compost container, however, these won’t fit fridge and freezer packaging and will need to be emptied more frequently. In all cases, just be sure to wrap your food scraps in newspaper or place in a compostable bag, so they don’t stick or freeze to the sides of the outdoor cart.

Check out: Your mode of transit affects your Carbon Footprint

Community Solar

Community Solar

Linden Hills Power & Light and Sundial Solar Energy, LLC are in the process of creating a unique Community Solar Project (CSP) program based on the Xcel Energy Solar Rewards Community Program and rates approved by the Minnesota Public Utilities Commission (PUC).

WHAT IS COMMUNITY SOLAR?

A shared, centrally-located solar array system that provides electricity to participating subscribers.

BECOME A SUBSCRIBER! Subscriptions in the CSP are estimated at $1,650 per kilowatt of capacity for qualified subscribers. This pricing includes a reduction in costs based on federal tax incentives for solar energy that Sundial will pass through to subscribers. A typical MN home uses 800 kWh per month or 9600 kWh per year. A 4 kW subscription could provide half the electricity used by the average MN home. Solar power production from your shares is shown and credited on your monthly Xcel bill.

Subscribers pay an annual fee of 12 percent of the credits they received in the previous year. This annual fee is used for operation and maintenance expenses. Each year, CSP members will receive a report that details the total amount of electricity generated, total credits paid by Xcel Energy and any unsubscribed or unallocated credits, and all actual expenses for maintenance and administration of the membership base.

WHAT IF I MOVE OR NEED TO SELL? 

Unlike solar panels on your own roof, the electricity credits move where you move. As long as you have an Xcel energy bill and live in a county contiguous to the CSP, the credits will transfer to your new bill at your new home. Subscribers have the option to sell their subscriptions to another qualifying subscriber or to Sundial at any time based on the formula over the 25-year life of the CSP contract with Xcel Energy.

BENEFITS

  • The ability of renters or others whose roof is unsuitable for solar to participate in a solar array
  • Energy cost offsets move with you even if you move homes
  • Estimated 8-year Return on Investment (ROI)
  • Subscriptions can cover up to 120% of your annual electricity usage
  • Electricity costs are locked in for 25 years
  • Quality assurances, turn-key maintenance, and energy guarantees
  • Minnesota-made and other high-quality solar energy systems
  • Sundial is a leading provider of solar in MN, including The Will Steger Center in Ely, the largest Minnesota-made array in MN (in Lakeville).
  • LHP&L is an award-winning non-profit dedicated to sustainable energy, waste reduction, and energy conservation

Check out: COMPOST CAPTAINS

Easy Energy Efficiency

Easy Energy Efficiency

A super-easy way to decrease your electricity bill is to switch all your incandescent lights to CFLs. Change 10 or more frequently used lights and chances are you will see an immediate impact on your bill.

Steps you can take to seriously reduce your energy use.

Many families could achieve the first 1,000 kwh/year of savings by washing clothes in cold water (770 kwh/yr); placing several major electronics, such as video and stereo systems, on a surge protector that can be switched off (47kwh/year); and brushing of their refrigerator’s condenser coils twice a year (392 kwh/year). Many families could get another 1,000 kwh/year reduction by replacing half of their incandescent lighting with compact fluorescents (440kwh/year), letting the dishes in the dishwasher air dry (404kwh/year), and enabling the “sleep” function on their computer and printer to go on after five minutes of non-use (259kwh/year).

Level 1:

Simple Things You Can Do Today

Take these actions and save up to 33 percent of your energy use!

Turn Off Lights You’re Not Using

Take the step: Make a pact with your family to be extra mindful about shutting off lights when they leave a room. A good rule of thumb is that there should be a maximum of one light on in your household per person at any given time. You can even put little reminders around your switchplates–For a switchplate reminder, download here from Co-op America. Or, install motion sensors (about $20 each) that turn the lights off after a room has remained empty for a certain amount of time.

Why: lluminating rooms that aren’t in use is a huge waste.

Schedule an Energy Audit

Take the step: Get an energy audit performed on your home.

Why: Get expert advice to help you identify ways you can use less electricity and plug energy leaks in your home. You’ll get the most cost-effective and useful steps that will help you reduce your energy use, lower your home’s global warming footprint, and lower your energy bills, too. Your local utility will probably provide an energy audit for free, but you may get a more comprehensive audit—allowing you to save even more money in the long run—by paying for a whole-house energy audit.

The big picture: Taking all of the most cost-effective strategies for energy efficiency can cut your energy use in half, save you 50 percent or more off your energy bills, and halve your household global warming emissions, too.

Let Your Dishwasher Breathe

Take the step: Skip the energy-intensive drying cycle on your dishwasher and choose the “air-dry” option, or open the door overnight for some zero-energy dish-drying action.

Why: The drying cycle uses up a lot of energy and money, while just letting dishes air-dry will accomplish the task for free.

Shift Your Load to Off-Peak Times

Electricity demand goes down at night and begins rising in the morning, peaking at mid-day before falling back down at nightfall again. Because power sources have to produce the electricity around the time of its use, without any capacity for long-term storage, it is our peak demand that determines the expansion of dirty coal-fired power plants and other polluting forms of energy generation. Someday, utilities may use smart meters to help us even things out, but until then, you can do your own private “load shifting” by trying, whenever possible, to wash laundry or run the dishwasher at nighttime and as far possible from mid-day. “Delay” settings on appliances sometimes make this easy to do—many dishwashers, for example, can be set after dinner to go on in four hours and wash the dishes while you sleep.

Bonus: Your utility company may shift to time-of-day metering in the future, so you’ll actually pay less when you use electricity at night.

Don’t Heat or Cool Empty Rooms

Take the step: If there is a room in your home that is largely unused, close the vents to save on heating and cooling costs. Always turn off room air conditioners as you leave a room. When you go on vacation, set the thermostat at least ten full degrees below (in winter) and above (in summer) where it’d be if you were home; no need to heat or cool a house when no one is home.

Why: Heating and cooling rooms no one is in wastes energy (and money!) and generate needless emissions.

Turn Off Your Electronics

Take the step: If you’re going to be away from your computer or other appliance for more than an hour, turn it off as you leave the room.

Why: Some people mistakenly think it takes a giant burst of energy to power up a television, computer, or game console, and so they leave these electronics on continuously. However, even on an “energy-saver” setting, a computer, game console, or television wastes much more energy when it’s on all day than if you really turn it off.

Eliminate “Phantom Load”

Take the step: Many electronics use electricity even when they’re turned off—so your best bet is to unplug electronic devices and appliances when they’re not in use. Or, plug your TV and accessories into one power strip and switch off the whole strip to eliminate this “phantom load.”

Why: At least five percent of the average household’s monthly utility bill goes towards powering devices that are turned off. TVs, DVD players, computers, printers, and cell phone chargers are just some of the devices that leak power even when they aren’t on—in fact, a quarter of the energy used by your TV each year is consumed when the TV is off.

Eliminate Your Second Fridge, and Show the First One a Little Love

Take the step: If you’re paying to power a second refrigerator or freezer in your basement, try to make do with one fridge in the kitchen and unplug the extra one.
You can help your first fridge function more efficiently by placing jugs of water in any empty space inside (water retains cold better than air does), and by taking some time once every six months to pull the fridge away from the wall and scrub down the grime that accumulates on the coils. (One of our editors found that her fridge was so much more efficient post-scrub that she could set the thermostat higher for the same chill!)

Why: The refrigerator is often the biggest energy-using appliance in a home. A typical refrigerator uses more than 1,300 kWh a year and costs the average American household $120 a year in electricity.

Wash Clothes in Cold Water

Take the step: Turn the knob on your washing machine to “cold/cold” today, and leave it there. If you use a laundromat, post this flyer from the Center for a New
American Dream
 to spread the word about washing in cold.

Why: With modern washing machines and detergents, washing your clothes in cold water gets them just as clean as washing in hot water, but it uses half the energy. In situations where you
do need hot water—for example, to kill dust mites in bedding— choose cold water for the rinse cycle.

Give the Dryer a Rest

Take the step: Consider skipping the dryer and hanging your clothes to dry on a rack or a clothesline. (For support in line-drying your clothes and to help fight anti-clothesline ordinances in your neighborhood, join Project Laundry List.) You can avoid wrinkles by using your dryer for five minutes, then hanging clothes on the line. Please note that if you have pollen allergies, you’ll want to skip the outdoor clothesline and use an indoor drying rack instead.

Why: It takes a huge commitment of energy to run a dryer— all to do something that the air, given a little more time, will do for free. Many households spend more than $100 a year on the energy used by their dryer.

Level 2:

A Little More Time, A Lot More Savings

Take these actions and save up to 56 percent of your energy use!

Replace Your Light Bulbs

Take the step: Replace the incandescent light bulbs in your house, even if they haven’t yet burned out, with compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs).

Why: You’ve been hearing about the wonders of CFLs for years now—they last ten times longer and use one-fourth as much energy as incandescent bulbs—but you might still have some old incandescent bulbs around your house. Incandescent bulbs are inefficient because they give off 90 percent of their energy in heat—while CFLs give off little heat. Don’t let the higher price of a CFL stop you—because CFLs use so little energy and last so much longer, a CFL bulb will save you $30 or more over its lifetime.

Please note that CFLs do contain a small amount of mercury. However, CFLs still result in fewer mercury emissions than incandescents. The average coal-fired plant spews about 13.6 mg of mercury to power an incandescent bulb, while it only emits 3.3 mg to power a CFL. Add that to the 5 mg of mercury the average CFL contains, and you still come out ahead. Be sure to dispose of CFLs properly: call your local solid waste authority for local options, or take them to your local hardware store (some may charge a small fee). CFLs must be recycled properly, please DO NOT place it in the trash.

Light-emitting diode, or LED, lights are also becoming more widely available for uses around the home. A mercury-free LED light lasts about 50 times longer than an incandescent bulb. You can now find LED reading lamps and LED Christmas lights. A strand of LED Christmas lights uses 90 percent less energy than incandescents.

The big picture: If each home in America replaced one bulb with an Energy Star CFL, it would save enough energy to light 3 million homes for a year and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions from 800,000 cars.

Resources: The Energy Star program’s page on CFLs includes information about clean-up and disposal of broken CFLs, as well as energy-saving calculators and purchasing tips.

Plug Your Air Leaks

Take the step: Plug the energy leaks in your home. Call your utility for a free energy audit, or call an energy auditor in your area—they will be able to find the air leaks in your home and assess how you can fix them. A local contractor can help you plug those energy holes, or you can seal leaks around windows and doors yourself with weatherstripping or caulk available at your local hardware store.

Why: Investing in energy-efficient heating and cooling systems will only take you so far if your home is leaking out the cool or warm air you’re putting in it. The EPA estimates that properly sealing and insulating the “shell” of your home—its outer walls, ceiling, windows, and doors—is often the most cost-effective way to improve energy efficiency in your home. By properly sealing and insulating your home, you can save anywhere from 5 to 50 percent of your energy bill each year. Only 20 percent of homes built before 1980 are well-insulated, so if you own an older home, you should assess if you need more insulation.

The big picture: If one-fourth of US households weather-stripped and caulked their doors and windows, it would save enough energy in heating and cooling costs to prevent 8 million tons of CO2 from being emitted.

Resources: The Energy Star program’s Do-it-Yourself Guide to sealing and insulating your home includes step-by-step information on how to find and plug air leaks. Find nontoxic insulation made from recycled cotton; ask your local hardware store, or look in the “Building—Supplies/Kits” category of our National Green Pages™.

Reduce Your Water Use

Take the step: Reduce the water you’re using. Simple ways to save water include fixing any leaks around your house and replacing faucets and showerheads with low-flow alternatives.

Why: According to the EPA, American public water supply and treatment facilities consume enough electricity each year to power more than 5 million homes. So think of turning off your faucet when you don’t need it as you do turning out the lights when you leave a room. In fact, the energy used to transport and treat the water that runs out of your tap for five minutes would power a 60-watt light bulb for 14 hours. Additionally, water shortages are becoming a harsh reality for many communities—a recent government survey found that at least 36 states are anticipating water shortages by 2013.

The big picture: If just one out of every 100 American homes changes to water-efficient fixtures, we would avoid adding 80,000 tons of greenhouse gas to the atmosphere, says the EPA.

Resources: The EPA’s WaterSense program has information about installing low-flow water fixtures, low-water-use landscaping, and more.

Cut Waste Through Windows

Take the step: Plug window leaks: Make sure that the edges of your windows are properly sealed. Fill any gaps with caulk (find no-VOC caulk from AFM Safecoat) to stop air leaks.

Cover up in winter: By covering windows with heavy curtains or drapes, you can greatly cut down the heat loss. You can also purchase storm-window kits from your local hardware store. These kits come with plastic film and a special tape and will cost you about $3–$8 per window. Reflective “Low-E” films are also available, which reduce the amount of heat that escapes through windows while still letting light through.

Check out: How Does An Led Light Bulb Work

Curbside Composting in Minneapolis -it's so easy!

Curbside Composting in Minneapolis -it’s so easy!

The City of Minneapolis has approved a curbside collection of compostable items for all of the city! All of Linden Hills can sign up now by contacting Solid Waste & Recycling at [email protected].

Residents of single-family, duplexes, and fourplexes are now able to recycle their organics through the curbside collection program. You don’t need a backyard composter, all you need to have is a willingness to try something new. 32% of Minneapolis households are now participating. It’s so easy! The city drops off a wheeled green cart, you simply keep your organic material -food scraps and soiled paper – separate from your plastic and recycling and simply wheel that material to the curb on your regular garbage pick-up day. If you can take out the trash you can curbside compost! For ideas on how to set up your kitchen for composting, click here. For ideas for setting up your other recycling, click here.

Click on the video on the right to see why composting is so easy. Or view Hennepin County’s video about recycling organics in every room of your home. 

Sign up for curbside composting by clicking here.  To receive updates and tips from LHP&L, sign up for our mailing list (join here).

Click here to read about our favorite composter in Milwaukee.

Click here for info on Fruit flies and gnats.

Restaurants that Compost: Support those who support the earth!

Love what we’re doing? We could use your support (via financial donation or committee help). Click here for more information.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ)

COLLECTION:  

How does it work?
Once you sign up to participate in the pilot (see above), the city will deliver a 65-gallon green “organics” cart to your home. It looks very similar to the normal black-wheeled bin that you bring out to the curb before your garbage collector arrives. From then on, you will wheel both bins out to the curb on your regular collection day and the city will take your compostables (green cart), and your non-compostable garbage (black cart). Feel free to call the city and request they replace your large 94-gallon black cart with a smaller version (and save $3 per month) if space is an issue. You’ll probably find that there’s very little to put in your black cart anyway. Many people find they only need to put their black cart out every 2 weeks -one less chore on garbage night!

What IS compostable?

View the complete list of what is and isn’t compostable.

Food scraps, including fruit and vegetable peelings, meat, leftovers, etc. Paper products that you’re not currently recycling -(continue to recycle newspaper, office paper, cardboard, corrugated card in your usual manner) that is, tissues, paper towels, egg cartons, pop boxes, a paper that’s touched food e.g. paper plates, pizza boxes; waxed containers such as milk cartons, and packaging from fridge and freezer products. By participating in the composting program, you’ll find there should be no paper in your trash at all. Other items that are biodegradable include coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, lint from your dryer, vacuum bags, old potted plants, and unusable old (non-synthetic) clothes. Note, that yard waste will not be collected with the organics at this time. You can find a comprehensive, A-Z list of what is and isn’t compostable here. 

What is NOT compostable?
There should be very little in your regular black trash cart apart from plastics (plastic wrap, plastic packaging, nonrecyclable plastic bags) and broken glass, ceramics, rubber, leather, non-recyclable metal (this includes foil-lined items like candy bar wrappers and chip packets), diapers and pet feces.  Keep yard waste out as usual. Minneapolis recycles all plastics 1-7, plus waxed cardboard-like milk and OJ cartons, plus aseptic packagings like juice boxes and foil-lined soup boxes.

My kitchen is so tiny. How should I set up my home for composting?
Click here for several different ways to set up your trash system -1,400 people can’t be wrong – they thought it would be tricky and then discovered the truth – it’s SO EASY!!!

What are the benefits of composting?
Click here.

How can I get some compost back for my garden?
Just as aluminum can recyclers and plastic bottle recyclers don’t give us free cans of pop or bottles of water, the companies that create compost are looking to make a living and create a valued resource, not give away their product for free. We will have some free compost to give away at the Linden Hills Festival, but if you want more than a pail full, you can order bulk compost here.

Videos

The videos from Hennepin County below explain the three options for recycling organics – organics composting, food-to-people, and food-to-animals.

Videos in English

For a full listing A through Z, of what is and isn’t compostable, please click here.

TIPS and HINTS:

  • Line a mini kitchen bin or paper bags with shredded paper used paper towels, napkins, used paper plates, or a sheet of newspaper to help absorb liquid or moisture that escapes from wet food scraps.
  • Wrap food scraps like meat, fish, poultry, cooking grease, sauces, soups, etc., in used paper products like used paper towels before placing them in the mini kitchen bin.
  • During warm months, you can freeze food scraps like shellfish or fish until collection day.
  • Clean out your fridge, freezer, or cupboards of expired food products just before your collection day instead of after your collection day.
  • Keep your green cart outside in a shady, convenient, well-ventilated area.
  • During the winter, move the green cart closer to your house to allow for easier access.
  • Keep air vents located at the bottom of the green cart clear to allow for air circulation.
  • During warm months, place your green cart curbside each week on your scheduled collection day even if your cart is not full.
  • Rub the inside of your green cart lid with vinegar and/or sprinkle a small amount of rock salt, baking soda or lime inside your cart to control fruit flies and prevent pests.

All my neighbors have carts but I didn’t sign up right away. Is it too late to sign up?
No, you can still sign up, just email us using the signup link in red above.

What about yard waste?
At this point, yard waste will NOT be collected. Yes, this IS different than what we’d originally heard, but at this stage, please continue your regular yard waste routine. We hope that yard waste will be allowed at a later date.

Where is our organics material being taken? Will it be burned?
The organics will be taken to a commercial composting facility to be turned into compost. It will NOT be burned. The trash from your black cart will continue to go to the HERC incinerator and be burned, as is done currently with all our garbage. The material in the green cart is diverted from this regular process, which is much better for the environment. The organics will be taken here to be turned into compost.

Has this been done before?
Hennepin County has sponsored pilot organics collections in Minnetonka, Wayzata, and Orono. It has also been city-wide and ongoing in Hutchinson MN. In fact, until the 1950s, organics were collected throughout Minneapolis-St Paul. Linden Hills will be the first Minneapolis neighborhood to re-start collecting.

BAGS
Do I have to buy compostable “bio bags” instead of regular garbage bags? Where can I buy biodegradable bags?
No, you don’t have to use bio bags. Plastic bags, including regular trash bags, are NOT accepted. However, you can wrap your compostables in several sheets of newspaper and then throw them in paper bags if you prefer. Or you can use a milk container or ice cream container and stuff those with food scraps and toss them in a paper bag or directly in the cart if they’re sealed well and won’t spill. You could also line your cart with a giant paper bag (lawn and yard size) from a hardware store which is about 30 cents per bag and then seal it up each week before garbage day. See “implementation” below or kitchen setup ideas for more ideas.

If you are going to switch to compostable bags, which makes things very clean and easy, they can be purchased at Clancey’s Meat Market, Linden Hills Co-op, Settergren’s Hardware (all at 43rd and Upton), and Lunds at 50th/France; as well as Target Edina, St Louis Park, and Nicollet Mall.

I have cut back on plastic and paper grocery bags by using canvas bags.  But I find my husband grabbing piles of clean paper bags to sort the recycling every week.  Now it sounds like I may also need to use some paper bags for composting because those larger biodegradable bags are pretty expensive. I have ended our newspaper subscriptions because my husband is the only avid newspaper reader and he reads the paper online.  So in an effort to save trees, I convinced him to stop the subscriptions.  So I don’t “naturally” have much paper in my home to wrap composting in. Any ideas? Karen

Good points. I think it’s going to take us all some time to figure out the system that works best for us. I’m not sure if you get much junk mail and you could use that -eg Rainbow, Jerry’s, and Cub flyers, or if you shred your bills and could use shredded paper in the bottom of a cardboard box, or maybe use waxed milk containers or ice cream containers? Otherwise, you could put one of the 33-gallon sizes in your wheeled cart and have a countertop option in the kitchen that you empty in the cart each day; or use the 13-gallon size in your kitchen and see if you can just use one a week rather than several per week – by only putting the food scraps and small paper products like paper towels/tissues/cotton swabs, etc in there. Place fridge and freezer packaging, pizza boxes, etc directly in the cart.  I’m sure you’re not the only one experiencing this, so I think it will be really helpful for others if you can share what you find works for you. Please keep us posted!

I was planning on using paper bags but then read that the collection company required the bags to be sealed.  The bio bags are so expensive that I’d much rather use the paper bags (although I’m not sure how I’m supposed to seal them). Kendra

I wrap my items in newsprint and then put them in paper bags. You can “seal” the paper bags by just rolling the top over (you have to leave the room) or with masking tape/painter’s tape (these are paper-based tape, not plastic tape, so they can be composted).

Can I use the Star Tribune “Oxy Degradable bags”? Erick, Elliott

The bags used by the Star Tribune do not meet the ASTM D6400 standard for compostability and are not BPI certified.  Therefore, they are not accepted by our local organics composting sites.

The plastic used in the Star Tribune bags is called oxo-degradable; some call them oxo-biodegradable.  Basically, the plastic is conventional polyethylene with an additive that causes the plastic to break into smaller pieces over time.  The more additive that is used, the quicker the breakdown occurs. As you will see in the press release below from the manufacturer of the bags, they do not describe their bag as biodegradable or compostable.  In fact, the press release states that these bags can be recycled with other plastic bags “because they are conventional plastic with an additive.”

http://www.gp-plastics.com/images/pdf/PolyGreen_062308.pdf

John James
Hennepin County Dept. of Environmental Services

Do I HAVE to use Biodegradable bags?  Matt
They are certain things that you can throw directly in the cart -e.g. pizza boxes, fridge and freezer cardboard, paper towels – anything that is not going to rot or is likely to stick to the edges of the cart. Any wet food waste should be contained in some way -in addition to bio bags you can use paper grocery sacks, or sometimes we open milk cartons and use those, or use waxed ice cream containers. You can also wrap wet food scraps in the newspaper. The idea is to stop the food waste from sticking to the sides of your cart, which makes it difficult for the garbage person to get your cart emptied, and results in odor issues for you. Hope this helps!

IMPLEMENTATION

How should I prepare my kitchen for the organics collection?
The organics cart from the city can be kept outdoors, wherever you keep your regular black trash cart. You may want to consider switching to a smaller black cart after a few weeks of the pilot if you find yourself having very little non-recyclable waste. (You will save $2 per month). As far as in the kitchen, there are a number of options.

1. Convert your usual kitchen trash can to biodegradable only (using a compostable bag, or paper bag, not regular trash bags. If you use paper bags, wrap the wet organics in three sheets of newspaper before tossing it in the paper bag so it doesn’t fall apart when you lift it!), and place all the plastic/nonrecyclable metal, etc elsewhere in a smaller receptacle;

2. Consider a pull-out “trash drawer” for trash with multiple compartments so you can have the organics in one compartment, recyclable paper in another, and non-recyclables in the third to fit your needs. Make sure the organics compartment has a biodegradable liner or paper bag liner as all material that goes in the green cart needs to be bagged in some way (this excludes paper products such as pizza boxes, and other food soiled-cardboard which can be placed in the cart without sticking to the sides.

3. If you don’t have a lot of food waste you might consider a countertop compost container, however, these won’t fit fridge and freezer packaging and will need to be emptied more frequently.

In all cases, just be sure to wrap your food scraps in newspaper or place them in a compostable bag, so they don’t stick or freeze to the sides of the outdoor cart. See some options below courtesy of the website www.thisoldhouse.com. This type of sectioned drawer can be found at places like the Container Store; Storganize, Home Depot, etc.

For real-world examples of how people are implementing their systems, click here. (Please forward us your ideas by clicking here.)

Q. How can I become better informed?
A. Talk to your Compost Captain (most blocks have one or more) or attend an upcoming meeting. Sign up with the “join our mailing list” button on the home page and pick “General Interest” as your group.

Q. Currently Minneapolis tacitly encourages residents to throw out everything by only offering a $2 discount if a resident switches from the large garbage cart to the small one. Meanwhile, the solid waste base fee is about $25 for everyone. A better incentive would be to lower the solid waste base fee to say $15, charge $15 for the large garbage cart, and only $5 for the small cart. The green organics bin would be free. This scheme would encourage residents to use the green organics bin and the small cart. Can LHP&L help convince the city to do this? Jon.
A. A great idea – we can certainly forward it to the city for their consideration. I think they’ll be more interested in looking at it once they have some data from the pilot. Thanks for being so thoughtful about the program.

QUESTIONS ABOUT SPECIFIC ITEMS AND WHETHER THEY’RE COMPOSTABLE

Q. The Star Tribune bags say they’re biodegradable. That means we can compost them, right? Elliot.
A. Unfortunately not. The producer is taking advantage of a loophole in legislative language. The bags biodegrade into smaller and smaller pieces of plastic, they never break down completely in an organic way. So we can’t use them in the compost pilot. 

Q. I read on the Organics Collection page that waxed milk cartons can be composted. Does this include those “Tetra-Paks” that appear to be of the same material and usually hold soy or rice milk, kid’s juices, etc? What about the plastic cap or top to some of these, not a problem? Thanks. Jon.
A. Unfortunately, juice boxes, soy milk, chai tea, etc – all the tetra packs are foil-lined so we can’t compost them. However, milk cartons, cream, OJ, and other non-foil-lined wax cartons are fine. If you get the milk or orange juice cartons with the plastic caps, ideally remove them if possible.

Q. I have been thinking about the new system and have some questions about what is compostable—Tubes of toothpaste?Make-up?Foam containers from meat?Foam containers from eggs?Bones?Drug containers – plastic not currently recyclable?Synthetic clothes? Fleece products?Aerosol cans? I wonder if you put up a simple list on the website and just add to it as questions come up.   With the following categories:  Compostable, Noncompostable, Currently noncompostable???? Heartsher

I think the simple answer is when in doubt keep it out and if it’s plastic, never ever put it in. So toothpaste is compostable, but the tube is not. Make-up would be, but the plastic container it’s in is not. Styrofoam for meat, eggs, coffee, etc is not. Plastic drug containers, synthetics, and fleece (made from plastic bottles) are plastic and therefore not compostable -cotton clothing and wool or cotton socks would be. Cans (metal) are not compostable. There is a section on the website already (here) that lists specifics on what is (anything that came from a plant except rubber or animal other than leather) and what isn’t (metal, plastic, ceramic, rubber, leather) but I will add your questions to the FAQ section as I think it’s a big learning experience for all of us. There are lots of things like dryer lint, pet hair, sawdust, etc that are compostable that you wouldn’t immediately think of, so I’ll add those, too.

Q. Hello! Can pet HAIR be composted? Ours shed a lot, so all of that hair now is going into the garbage can. Thanks and I hope the program is a fantastic success so that it can be expanded to the Fulton neighborhood! Nancy
A. Yes, pet hair is accepted, so groom away!

Q. What is a box board? Should it be composted or recycled? Joanne
A. Boxboard is the sort of cardboard that pasta or toothpaste or pancake mix comes in -so it’s food packaging that goes in the cupboard/pantry as opposed to the cardboard that goes in the fridge and freezer. Boxboard should be flattened and then recycled. Fridge and freezer packaging (plus pop boxes, or 6 pack carriers) have a chemical strengthener added so they stay together when wet. The chemical means they can’t be recycled but they CAN be composted, so put them in your organics cart. They can go in unbagged if you like, as they won’t stick to the sides.

Q. Full vacuum bags are OK.  Does that include the HEPA cloth bags?  How about loose sweepings from a carpet sweeper?Joanne.
A. Carpet sweepings are fine, plus dustpan and brush gunk and the icky stuff from the bottom of the sink. Are the HEPA cloth bags reusable? The contents would be fine. If they are made from cotton they’d be fine, if it’s synthetic, don’t put them in. A good rule of thumb is to ask yourself “is this something a worm or bug would eat? So anything natural that decomposes, yes, anything plastic or synthetic, no.

Q. Can cardboard ice cream containers be composted? Thank you. Carolyn
A. Yes! Any waxy cardboard like that or any cardboard from the fridge or freezer can be composted.

Q. What about the plastic pour spout on my milk and orange juice cartons? Must I cut these out before I put them in the organics collection cart?  Also, how do I tie the compostable bag. Shall I use something other than a wire tie or rubber band to secure the bag? Are the soy, almond milk paper box containers recyclable? Wendy.

Hi Wendy, If possible, it would be great if you cut out the plastic spout. However, if it is just too much hassle, it will be screened out when the machines sift it through a screen at the end of the composting process. ie all the food and paper scraps have degraded down to dirt and then they sift through a 1/4 inch screen for any glass, plastic, etc that may have inadvertently gotten into the organics stream.

I normally try to leave enough space that I can tie the top of the bio bag into a knot, taking two edges and doing a granny knot. However, you could also tape it shut with masking/painter’s tape (paper-based, not plastic-based sticky tape).

Soy milk containers like juice boxes normally have a foil and plastic lining inside which means they are NOT compostable. Eureka recycling recycles them in St Paul, but currently, in Minneapolis, they are not recyclable.  Feel free to ask more questions, I’m always happy to help!

CART SIZE:

Q. Is the only type of collection container truly a 65-gallon receptacle?? In my opinion, this needs to be reconsidered. There are only two of us at our home.  More than half of the time we do not fill our black trash containers more than 50%. Where are we supposed to keep another BIG trash bin?  Remember – this is ‘Cottage City’.  Some of us have small houses, yards, and garages-.-Concerned, The Ainsworths.

Hi – the suggestion from the city is to switch (at no cost) to a small black trash cart which saves you $3 per month. Then the green cart would be used for most of your garbage (all but plastic, metal, rubber, ceramic, and glass) – you may find that you hardly use the black cart at all. In which case, if you have a kind neighbor, maybe they’d let you use their black cart and you’d just use the green cart.  You’re welcome to attend our compost captain event on October 2 (2720 W 43rd St, #300; 7pm)to have additional questions and concerns answered. Susan Young from the Dept of Solid Waste and Recycling will be in attendance to respond to residents.

Why is the green cart so big?

This is a pilot program, so one of the variables being tested is cart size. The carts were ordered under the assumption that we’d be collecting yard waste with kitchen waste, and we still hope to be able to do that in the future. Better to be too big and have the ability to add in yard waste later, than be too small and need to order replacement carts. These carts are expensive!

Q. I am concerned about one size not fitting all.  As it’s only me, I do faithfully recycle, but it takes three or four recycling days to collect enough plastic, glass, and cans to put out a green plastic box worth emptying. I don’t subscribe to magazines or newspapers, or end up with much cardboard. I mulch my yard waste, and compost it. In short, if the cart for said items is as large as the standard dark green trash can, I am going to find myself being very annoyed smashing it into my garage, knowing it is going to be empty for months.

A. Very valid points! And good for you for being so thoughtful about your waste. I wonder if you have any neighbors in a similar position that you could just share one cart between you. You say you’re composting your yard waste, but are you currently composting food waste?  With this program, in addition to food waste, we can take pizza boxes, packing from fridge and freezer products (the cardboard that has chemicals in it to make it stronger), tissues, napkins, paper plates, etc. You may find that you’re using the organics cart more than your regular cart. Are you currently using the large (94 gallon)black wheeled bin or the small 22 gallon? There should be so little in your regular trash you should be able to move to the smaller black cart (and save yourself $2 per month). In other communities the organics recycling is weekly and they have moved from weekly garbage pick up to every two weeks.

Check out: Eco Blend Award

Southwest Pedal Power

Southwest Pedal Power

LHP&L Committee Southwest Pedal Power (SWPP) is looking to bring local, experiential insight and thoughts from our community to assist our City in the decision-making process and implementation of bike lanes in our community. Stay informed by joining our email list below. Visit the dedicated website here.
Linea’s Power Bar recipes here.

Currently, we volunteer to bring stakeholders together to consider:

1. Ideas and recommendations from the City for Upton Ave S, between Hwy 62 and Lake Calhoun.

2. Efforts to make W 44th St an east-west thoroughfare, between Lake Harriet and Edina, connecting the business districts.

4. Efficiencies of implementation created by local resurfacing and infrastructure acceleration projects.

5. Other area priorities identified by residents, property owners, and the City of Public Works that is consistent with the Bikeways Master Plan.


Click HERE to read an article on choosing a bike by local resident Fred Mayers.

Identified stakeholders

  • Buy the T-shirt! Local area residents
  • Local area businesses
  • City Council (Betsy Hodges, Ben Hecker)
  • Dept of Public Works Bicycle and Pedestrian Coordinators (Shaun Murphy, David Peterson)
  • City Dept of Public Works Resurfacing Project (Chris Trembath)
  • Minneapolis Bicycle Advisory Committee
  • Minneapolis Bike Coalition
  • Park Board
  • Linden Hills Power & Light
  • Local events: National Night Out, Farmers Markets, neighborhood associations
  • Nice Ride

Included in our meeting sessions are:

  • Bill Dooley, local Bicycle Advisory Committee representative to the City of Minneapolis
  • Matthew Hitchin, Linden Hills resident, and cyclist
  • Fred Mayer, Fulton resident, and cyclist
  • Linea Palmisano, Linden Hills resident and cargo biking momma
  • Lisa Peterson-Bender, MN DOT and Lowry Hill resident
  • Susan Priem, Fulton resident and board member of the Minneapolis Bike Coalition

Check out: Order Compost for your gardening or landscaping needs!

Order Compost for your gardening or landscaping needs!

Order Compost for your gardening or landscaping needs!

Compost is a  soil amendment  DO NOT PLANT DIRECTLY INTO THIS OR ANY OTHER COMPOST. COMPOST SHOULD BE BLENDED THOROUGHLY WITH SOIL AND/OR OTHER NON-COMPOST AMENDMENTS.

PRICING

Compost ($16.00/cubic yard)

Garden Blend mixes 45 percent compost, 45 percent black dirt, and 10 percent sand to help ensure beautiful gardening results. ($21.00/cubic yard)

50/50 Compost Blend mixes 50 percent compost and 50 percent black dirt to grow vibrant plants, trees, and shrubs. ($18.00/cubic yard)

Topsoil contains highly-concentrated organic matter to ensure the greatest growth results. ($20.00/cubic yard)

Rain Garden Blend is a mix of 70 percent sand soil and 30 percent compost. Used to filter water before it leaves job sites. ($23.00/cubic yard)

DELIVERY OR PICK UP: Delivery is $110 dollars. For soil and compost, the maximum load is 15 yards. For mulch, max load is 25 yards. They will not deliver mixed loads. Pick up with your vehicle in Burnsville. For more information please contact the Mulch Store online or call at 952-946-6999.

http://www.mulchstoremn.com/mulch.html 

Mulch. Click here for photos and prices on mulch.

Use the compost calculator to calculate how much compost you need.


Compost CalculatorThis simple calculator will tell you how much compost you need to amend or top-dress your project.  Simply (1) enter the length in feet, (2) enter the width in feet, (3) select the depth you’d like, and (5) press Calculate. Your answer will appear under the calculate button.

Soil Amendment: 

Compost used as an amendment is typically incorporated into the soil anywhere from 1″ – 6″ deep or more, depending on need. The typical application rate to amend soil is 3 CY / 1000 sq ft at 1″ deep.

Top Dressing: 

Compost used as a top dressing is applied to the top of the ground from 1/4″ to a maximum of 3/8″ in depth. The typical application rate for top dressing is 1 CY / 1000 sq ft at 1/4-3/8″ deep.

For Vegetable Gardens and Flower Beds: 

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick) to a maximum of 6 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (2” thick). Roto-till, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again. 

For Bedding Plants: 

Spread 1/8 to ¼” of compost evenly on top of the soil, mix into the soil, and then water thoroughly. 

For House Plants: 

Spread 1 tablespoon per 6” pot or about 1/8” of compost evenly over the top of the soil and water. Repeat every six months or when required.

For Sod Preparation: 

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick) to a maximum of 6 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (2” thick). Roto-till soil, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again. 

For Seed Bed Preparation:

Blend compost with the existing soil. Use between 1-1/2 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1/2” thick) to a maximum of 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet (1” thick). Roto-till, disc, or manually blend this layer of compost with 6” of the existing soil. It is best to mix soil first, then apply compost, then mix compost and loosened soil again. 

For Backfilling Trees:

Mix one part of compost with 3 parts of native soil and backfill around the root ball.

Why Is Composting Good?

By Nacy, eHow Contributor 

Compost is one of the most beneficial soil amendments, and adding it is one of the easiest ways to improve the health of your garden. The byproduct of organic materials decomposing, compost is an excellent way to recharge the soil.

Multivitamins: 

Compost delivers a balanced blend of the nutrients plants need to grow. Unlike fertilizer, which acts quickly and can burn plants, compost is a gentle, slow-release vitamin.

Improved Soil Structure: 

Compost adds bulk to sandy soil and helps it retain moisture. It loosens heavy clay soil so it drains better. 

Earth Movers: 

Beneficial soil organisms, from earthworms to microscopic creatures, live in compost and give it vitality. The worms tunnel through the soil to aerate it and boost its nutrient value with their waste. Soil organisms work like pro-biotics to keep the beneficial bacteria flourishing.   

Improved Resistance to Pests and Diseases:

Just like people, plants are better able to fend off diseases if they are healthy. In addition, botanists have found that pests are less likely to attack healthy plants. Since compost-fed plants are stronger, to begin with, if they are infected or attacked they recover faster than plants growing in soil without compost.  

Mulch: 

When applied in beds, compost makes an excellent mulch. It keeps weeds down and helps the soil retain moisture.

Composting on the Farm: 

Farmers have been composting for centuries by plowing their fields under at the end of the growing season. Add some compost to every planting hole you dig. Spread it around established plants. Sprinkle it over newly seeded patches of grass. Grow potted plants in it. Once you start using black gold, you will find more and more uses for it.

Read this: Community Solar

Backyard Composting

Backyard Composting

The MN Pollution Control Agency gives you the scoop on backyard composting:

Yard trimmings and food scraps make up nearly 1/6 of what the average household throws into the garbage. By composting, you can convert organic wastes—yard trimmings, leaves, and many kinds of kitchen scraps—into a dark, crumbly mixture that can be used to improve the soil and reduce your use of fertilizer and water.

Composting how-to:

Composting is an easy way to reduce waste while improving your yard and garden.

Watch a video about how to compost. All you have to do is mix together nitrogen-rich “greens,” carbon-rich “browns,” water, and air. Click on the pictures on the right to download handy PDFs on how to compost and how to diagnose common issues.

  • Greens provide nitrogen and act as a source of protein for the microbes that are hard at work in your compost pile. Greens include green leaves, coffee grounds, tea bags, plant trimmings, raw fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, and hair.
  • Browns are a source of carbon and provide energy for the microbes. Browns include dried grasses, leaves and some weeds, straw, woodchips, twigs and branches, sawdust, shredded newspaper, corncobs, and stalks.
  • Water allows microbes to grow and travel around in the pile to decompose materials.
  • Turning your pile each week with a spade or pitchfork will provide air to aid decomposition and control odors.
  • If any problems do arise, be considerate of your neighbors and learn about common problems and solutions.

The compost bin

You can compost in a simple pile, but using a container or bin helps your compost pile retain heat and moisture and look neat. To get started, it’s easy to go with a single bin system. As materials are added and mixed together, the finished compost settles at the bottom of the bin.

Materials. Bins can be built from scrap lumber, old pallets, snow fence, chicken wire, or concrete blocks. Typically, several types of composting bins are sold at hardware or lawn and garden stores.

Size. A pile that is 1 cubic yard (3 feet high, 3 feet wide, 3 feet long) is big enough to retain heat and moisture, but small enough to be easily turned. Home compost piles shouldn’t be larger than 5′ x 5′ x 5′.

  • Check out the various types of manufactured bins
  • Find designs for building your own bin

Ideas for apartment and condo dwellers

  • Share a compost pile with a neighbor. Offer to help build and turn the pile in return for space.
  • Feed kitchen scraps to red worms, right inside your apartment. Read about vermicomposting or watch a video (below).

 Information provided by the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency.

Check out: Order Compost For Your Gardening Or Landscaping Needs!